Looking back at this week’s collections, for FW10 many designers looked to opposite sides of the spectrum for inspiration, whether it be a thin 1930s waify film star with perfectly parted and frizz-curled hair in florals and suits, or a bombshell dominatrix with a baby bang draped in nothing but noir. If you are more partial to a Bettie Page in all black circa 2010 kinda thing, find your inspiration and style guidance through Jen Kao and Jeremy Scott. Beautiful luxe fur arms on waist-length jackets were featured in both collections; Jen Kao using sheen reptile skin details (above right) and Jeremy Scott keeping it a bit more classic with an exposed metal zipper and simple silk (above left).

Hit the Jump to continue reading JAK’s complete NYFW review…

Another classic yet sexy piece used in both collections was the black turtleneck dress. Scott, in leather with an amazing patent leather bow-like bustier to break up the possible but definitely defeated bulkiness. Kao went a bit textural by adding harness-style ribbing around the bodice and a fantastic chain mail and fur widows peak skirt.

Jeremy Scott                                                                            Jen Kao

And lastly, because every Betty needs a black cut out body suit… Kao went for the mesh and leather look; Scott, completely literal with female silhouette cut-outs on top of little black onesies below.

Jeremy Scott                                                                               Jen Kao

However for the Katherine Hepburn in all of us, flourish in this seasons printed suits. Karen Walker revamped the sweet set in kitsch prints on velvet, corduroy or slubb silks. Her girls taunted us on the runway with their red lips and knee-highs clashing schoolgirl prints with cocktail hour. The Ports 1961 House had the same idea when they transformed the Bryant Park Salon into a 1930’s factory cityscape. With ‘The Sounds of the City” melody as background, statuesque girls filtered out in leather skull caps, rubberized details and our favorite the cropped pant suit…shown with a 2-button cropped jacket this time around.

Karen Walker                                                                          Ports 1961 House

Rachel Comey also gave us a refreshed version of the suit using mixed prints with pattern-on-patten blouses. Another favorite was her original prints on a sheer silk organza. Of course no suit left behind the traditional lace-up oxford shoe. In fact it’s left us both on a hunt for the perfect pair to wear with our cropped slack. So if your retro side is flaring up, we are looking forward to seeing you in 2-piece sets most likely with unrelated prints. For those of you who still breath black is the new black, have no hesitation that your mysterious anti color is still showing its way through all the New York runways for Fall, of course from the designers who do it best.

Rachel Comey

via JAK